Tag Archives: heat

Alaska, Cold Weather Life, Off-grid living

Before the month ends…

1 Comment

It has been two months exactly since my last post. I never mean to go that long between posts, but life is kinda weird. Either I feel like it would be just another weather report or things are so crazy that I have no energy to put words together at the end of the day. Ideally I would get into the habit of a weekly or even a daily post. We’ll see if I get there.

So the first thing on my list is that I want to acknowledge what should have been. I had a FB memory pop up this morning.

Today is what should have been my 27th anniversary, but this year will mark 10 years that he has been gone. I keep wondering what George would think about this crazy adventure we’re on. If he was here we would have made a lot more progress, that’s for sure! He had more energy than any ten other people I know. But I don’t know if he ever would have been on board with coming to Alaska. The month he spent on a longliner ruined his opinion of the frozen north. At one point he swore he would never come up here even for a summer vacation trip. Maybe that’s part of why I like it up here. It’s my adventure. I’m living my dream, not his. I certainly don’t feel the weight of dates so much anymore.

Here’s my annual reminder for everyone. Life is finite. When they put up a tombstone they put two dates and a dash in between. Everything you are and everything you will do is contained within that dash. Make the most of it. Tomorrow is not guaranteed, so make sure you live today. Find adventures small and large. Work to live, but don’t forget to live. Make that phone call, give hugs, share smiles, have no regrets. Second chances are few and far between.

Sunsets are the best! Try to zoom in and find the mountain silhouette in the background.
Last night’s midnight bathroom run was above average.

Now for the adventure!

December rolled along mostly smoothly. It was cold. There was snow but it was thin enough that people were worried about their septic systems freezing up. About the only thing I remember was that on Solstice day I could hardly keep my eyes off of the sky. It was gorgeous all day!

January has been the month of crazy. We had a day where it got ridiculously warm and poured rain on top of ice roads. Then the temperature dropped and we got nearly 2 feet of snow. That all got packed into a thick layer of ice on the roads that they’re still trying to scrape off. It is not fun to drive on!

Then we had some mechanical issues to work through. The alternator on my truck died and we had to drive home on just battery power. They lasted just long enough to get us into the driveway, but the lights got dimmer and dimmer as we went. Talk about nerve-wracking! No moose were struck and we made it in one piece. Thank you God! That night the temperature dropped to -40° again and stayed in that range for nearly the next two weeks. Even though we had a replacement alternator in the back seat, there’s no way anyone wants to touch tools at that cold. The metal will burn you. Trust me. We needed to figure out how to get it to a heated shop. In the meantime we made arrangements for riding to work with our friends across the creek.

Now if having the truck go down wasn’t enough fun, when we got home from work on Sunday it was to discover that our brand new generator had gone out. At first we thought it was just out of fuel, and maybe needed some time in a warm place. No. It started sucking oil through that rubber breather tube into the carburetor. Nothing anyone did could make it stop happening. It simply wouldn’t run longer than a couple of hours before the carb was too fouled to run. The generator it replaced had quit due to a suspected electrical problem. It would give an overload warning even without things being plugged in. To top it off, our friends started having generator struggles as well. Cold may have been a factor, but not completely. We ended up moving in with them for a week until some of this could be resolved. Our RV was frozen in the meantime. Even the propane stopped flowing. Sometimes you give in for a little while and do the minimum for survival. That includes getting a couple nights of good sleep without shivering.

When things got better they did so almost all at once. The weather warmed up to zero. The old generator let itself run again. (It’s still going. The new one went to get fixed by professionals.) Being indoors and warm may have helped. The truck batteries got warmed and charged. And finally, we made arrangements to bring the truck to a church friend who has a heated shop that is much closer than the only other option we could think of. The story of how it got there is the best part.

My son and my friend’s daughter teamed up to get the truck running. First they had to convince the generator to run long enough to warm the oil pan and engine block so it could start. They put in the batteries and hoped for the best. It fired up and the clock started ticking…

The shop is about 16 miles away. They only got halfway there before the batteries gave out and the truck died on the side of the highway. Ironically, it was right next to the NAPA in North Pole. They toyed with the idea of trying to borrow a charger for the batteries, but that would take too long. Then Nena saw the tow strap. It was perfect. The hooks were small enough to work with a hook on the back of her Prius. Yes, a Prius. She hooked it up to my big truck and pulled it the remaining 8 miles to the shop. Yes, a Prius pulled my Dodge eight miles on icy roads. No, nobody got a video of it. We have plans to recreate the situation just to get video proof that it can be done…at least on level ground. The poor thing didn’t quite have enough oomph to get it up the minor incline into the shop. They had to use another vehicle for that.

So we are now back to mostly normal. The old generator is working. The new one should be home soon as a backup. The truck works fine. And then someone was made a manager at Chris’ work, then promptly manufactured an excuse to fire him so he now has no reason to not find a better place with better pay. We’ll see how that shakes out. He has some great options that have come along.

That’s my month summed up. I left out a little bit, mostly because I want to see how some things work out before I share them. I’ll try not to wait another two months before the next post.

Now go figure out how to make the most of your dash. It’s a whole new year. You have 11 months left to fill.

Alaska, Cold Weather Life, Off-grid living

Yeah, it’s cold outside.

2 Comments

So as I write this it is a brisk -8°F outside. Not cold enough for me to put a coat on if I have to go out for a few minutes, but definitely not t-shirt weather. Almost everyone I left back in the lower 48 says that they couldn’t handle it up here because of the cold and the dark. I might have adapted already.

I’ve already written about the light. Before I came up here I was a little worried about how the short days would affect me. I know that I would get a bit of the winter blues with all of the gray dreariness in Portland. But up here I don’t think I’ve had a problem. I spend all day driving, trying to keep my eyes on the road and not the sky. It isn’t about the quantity of light, it’s the quality of the light that we get, and it’s all colors all day. Sunrise morphs into sunset with hardly any plain light in between. I may have run out of adjectives to adequately describe it all. I hope I never get tired of it.

The cold is something else. I’ve been told that we are having a fairly mild winter this year. The temperature dips to -20° on an almost weekly basis, but so far we’ve only had the one spell of colder. We have figured out the basics of dealing with this amount of cold. The generator has a hut so we don’t lose power. The propane has heat tape on the pipes so we don’t lose flow to it freezing again. We have sheets of foam insulation leaning against the trailer to minimize airflow underneath. I piled snow up to block most of the extra spaces between. The little Toyo works like a charm keeping the worst of the cold at bay. Even with the drafts that are inevitable in an older RV like this one the temperature is holding steady at 57°. We have it set for 60° but this is fairly comfortable.

The Toyo is good at prewarming our boots as it heats the RV.

So much about comfort depends on perspective. I remember coming out of the -31° night there was a temperature swing up to 27° and it felt so warm, but I read someone’s social media post about how they had to cut a bike ride short because 27° was SO COLD! I laughed, but was kind enough to not respond. This week there was heavy rain and wind back in Oregon, resulting in power outages. I saw posts encouraging people to be careful and stay warm because it was 48° outside. Again, I don’t reply because when the temperature drops the Toyo might struggle to keep the indoor temps above 40°, especially in my end of the RV. I just add layers and curl up with my blankets. There are ways to deal with this and I know I am becoming more resilient.

Clay knows how to keep warm.

So what should you do to keep warm when it’s really cold outside? It pretty much comes down to a couple of basic things. Trap body heat, and stay dry. If anyone was to come visit I would tell them to pack simply. Have a good quality set of base layers. I have a smartwool shirt and leggings that I almost live in. I also have wool socks, a fresh pair for every day. Over those I add a thermal shirt and flannel lined work pants. I have a scarf and a neck gaiter to keep body heat from escaping my shirts, and over that I wear a sweatshirt. That and a good set of boots that keep the snow out is enough to keep me going through the workday. I have a coat, hat, and gloves that I add as needed, but they annoy me most of the time with their bulk.

A day’s outfit laid out, ready to wear.

If it’s really cold I have hand warmers and toe warmers to get me through. I’ve had to use them a couple of times on the drive home because my poor truck can’t seem to put out any heat. Any time I drive home colder than -10° my feet and fingers start to ache with the cold. It isn’t much fun. A hand warmer can be a lifesaver then.

My friends across the creek have a bit more experience with the really cold weather. Just yesterday, for example, I got to hear more details about troubleshooting and swapping out the Toyo that broke down in the middle of a deep cold spell. She spent two days trying to figure out the problem before just replacing it. The temperature was -40° to -50° during this time. I can’t imagine, but I’m sure I’ll get to experience it at some point. They have a supply of cold weather gear that they have found at the pawn shop. People come up to work on the North Slope and decide not to stay so they sell their lightly used gear rated to -70° and it can be purchased for a tenth of the price of new. I’ll probably get a set at some point if I find the right size and have money at the same time. My biggest problem is finding boots that I can get my oddball left foot into.

Sleeping can be a bit of trouble. I’m using a memory foam mattress and I have discovered that cold makes it as hard as a rock and it steals body heat as it softens. I actually have to sit at the foot of the bed to preheat the mattress a little before I get under the covers. Even the dog has learned that trick. I’m using three blankets and they do a good job if they aren’t stolen by the dog. The single best blanket I bought was the Pendleton design sherpa blanket that Costco sold this year. I bought two of them and I wouldn’t mind picking up another. Just adding one of those blankets to the other two seemed to more than double the heat retained. The night starts out being chilly but I warm up pretty fast.

When I get my cabin built I hope to eliminate many of the problems we have in this RV. We’ll have better insulation. We’ll have a Toyo and a wood stove. I’ll be sleeping in the loft where the heat rises. Chris gets the bedroom downstairs because he likes it cooler. I’m glad for the experience we are gaining this winter, but I really can’t wait for the cabin.

Stay warm.

Alaska, Cold Weather Life, Off-grid living

Meet Plant

6 Comments

My dear friend Missi doesn’t celebrate Christmas with things. The reasons are complicated and incomprehensible to some, but simply put she and her family prefer to focus on the reasons behind Christmas instead of the commercialized holiday. She knows that my family does like Christmas. More specifically, I like the lights and the music that put me in a cozy mood. My boys are a little bit cynical about it and put up with me.

With our surroundings and circumstances being so very different this year I was fully prepared to let the season slide by. I left my special ornaments in Oregon. I don’t need to make the generator work extra just for colored lights. There’s no room for a tree in the RV. It’s okay, expected, and perfectly alright for me to do nothing this year.

I was surprised when my dear friend showed up at my door on Friday night with this baby Norfolk Island Pine. They are my favorite plant to pet and I haven’t had one in years. She said she wanted to make sure I had something for the season. Even though she doesn’t celebrate she wanted to make sure I can. (And she says she doesn’t understand why she has been told that Hospitality is one of her spiritual gifts.)

My son immediately dubbed it Plant. Plant will keep Mr Coffee company now that Mr Coffee has been abandoned for the stovetop version. It will be hard to keep Plant alive in the variable environment of the RV, but we’re up for the challenge. We still don’t know how or if we will dress Plant up for the holiday, but this could be fun.

As a side note, we spent all the daylight on Saturday (11am to 3:30pm) rebuilding the stand for the heating oil barrel. The quick and dirty stand that was put together to get us warm was starting to fail. We dismantled it and made a much better one.

The original lasted a month before it started to lean. A crack as fuel was added made replacing this an easy choice.
Almost finished. Much stronger, but the light was fading fast. We finished it by headlamp.

Really, it only took about 2 hours of work, but we had to come inside multiple times to warm up our hands and the driver drill. Our tools didn’t like the -13 weather any more than we did. It’s done now and should last us a good long while. I keep saying we, but I have to give all credit to my son. I was just the gofer on this project, as much as that goes against my nature. He can be proud of his work and I’m proud of the man he has become.

Alaska, Cold Weather Life, Inspiration, Off-grid living

Why do hard things?

Could you live here?

You know the memes: a picture of a cabin in the middle of nowhere and the text says, “for a million dollars” or “give up football” or something like that. A lot of people say YES! Others don’t think they can. A few more are emphatically hell NO! Most of them will never try.

I listen to podcasts and recently one covered a guest’s life growing up in North Korea. The host was rightly horrified by the description of the human rights violations and starvation faced by the people, but also by the idea of no running water and the struggle for electricity.

As I drive guests to and from town I talk about local history and the economy and life in the extreme conditions, but what often fascinates them most are stories of my own adventures. I mention how warm it feels at 18° and how strange it was when we got up to 38° for a few hours the other night. Then I casually say it has been as cold as -31° and oh by the way I spent that night without heat. And I wonder… Do they look at me the way that podcast host looked at the woman who grew up in North Korea? Do they pity me for doing this hard, crazy thing? They are all pretty well off to be able to travel and spend the money on the location I work for so maybe the idea of giving up modern comfort and convenience is something they would never consider, let alone do.

Another podcast I listen to uses the term voluntary hardship. It’s a strength training podcast so they literally mean choosing to pick up a heavy thing to gain the ability to bring in the groceries or work in the garden. You choose to do hard things so that everything else is easy by comparison. You gain strength in more than just your body. I haven’t gotten started on the strength training yet (I really need to) but I’ve been applying the concept to other areas in my life, often just as a mindset exercise.

I could have stayed in Oregon. I could have kept that stable job with benefits. I could have stayed in the house with all the modern comforts and conveniences like showers whenever I want. I didn’t have to come to a place where the air hurts my face and I have to go outside in the middle of the night when my bladder wakes me up. I chose this, knowing the shape of the life I was stepping into.

We didn’t have to stay in the RV with no heat on the night it hit -31°. We could have gone across the creek and stayed in the warm cabin. In fact we did that the next night before the Toyo got running in the RV. But staying in the cold proved that we could do it. In our own minds we survived the hard thing and came out the other side a little stronger. Each time something goes wrong we can tackle it with the knowledge that we are strong enough to do what has to be done and when we fix it we gain more confidence in our own ability and experience.

2020 has been hard on everyone. It might be your health or work, finances or need for social connections. There are things to be dealt with to get through this. It cannot stay bad forever. I suggest you embrace the hardship. Tackle it and find a way through that leaves you stronger. Life is there for the living and when you’ve been through a challenge the easy stuff is that much sweeter.

Life without running water, predictable power, and heat is not something that I expect everyone to try. I say it over and over, this really is not for everyone! But that doesn’t mean that only people who deprive themselves can benefit. Everyone can benefit by handling some hardship in their lives. It doesn’t have to break you. Let it make you stronger.

Alaska, Cold Weather Life, Food, Off-grid living, Stories

Cold weather, hot drinks

I just got a text from my son asking me to put some coffee on the stove. He had to go out for a while and wanted a hot beverage for when he came back. Back in Oregon coffee on the stove would mean Cuban coffee (super strong espresso) but here we have started doing it a bit different.

Coffee, hot chocolate, or tea?

We have a regular coffee machine. It makes just enough for a cup each and does a decent job. It’s easy to clean by dumping out the paper filter and also does double duty as a generator fill timer. If we want to know how long the generator has been running we just look at the clock. Often we will unplug it after filling to reset the timer. We get 8 hours per tank of gas, and then we need to refill.

My friend works as a move out house cleaner. Sometimes people leave interesting things behind. One person left three of these stovetop percolators. She gave us two. They have proved useful for simply heating water for dishwashing and don’t put a strain on the generator like the electric one does. As long as we have propane flowing we can have hot water or coffee.

Just yesterday my son told me that he really prefers the coffee from the percolator to the electric one. If you get the grounds right and let it boil the right amount of time it can make some really nice coffee. It can be as strong as espresso but not so bitter. Add in sugar and cream or some condensed milk and you have a wonderful drink to warm up with.

Alaska, Off-grid living

Reliable heat is almost here.

It’s too dark to get a good picture but I have a heater sitting just inside the door of the RV. There was just enough room to put the exhaust/air intake through the wall under the window. This small Toyo started out in the small cabin that Nena’s aunt built. When she left the cabin was sold but the Toyo stayed. Chris and Nena collected the necessary fittings to be able to hook it up.

I would like to say Chris hooked it up. Nena would like to say Chris hooked it up. In reality he was a good assistant and learned a lot. Actually, he had an easier time using the flaring tool on the copper fuel tubing than Nena did so he was necessary to the operation.

Today they need to make a stand to hold up the tank we will be using for fuel oil. The light was long gone by the time they started thinking about it. Fortunately for them the temperatures are in our favor. Yesterday got up to 38°, which is insane considering last week’s temps. We know they’ll be going down again soon so this needs to be done. This is the best time to get it running.

I’m so excited to have the prospect of reliable heat! I’ll get some pictures to share later on.