We’ve been without power for a week. It’s not a huge deal this time around because the daytime temps have been above 40° and we have the Little Buddy to warm us up at night. We spend the days at work where we can charge our devices so that’s been fine. Our backup plans work.
Of course we shouldn’t have to be out of power. The reason we are is mostly due to timing. A week ago we filled up the gas cans, which was painful. But before adding gas to the extended run tank we decided to let it go dry so we could take out the generator for an oil change. It had been a week since we added the last ten gallons, so we figured it could go dry at any time. It lasted until 11:45pm on Sunday night.
Who wants to get up at midnight to do generator maintenance? Nobody! We agreed to take care of it after work the next day. Cue the backup heat. We went back to sleep.
Now, an oil change only takes 15 to 30 minutes. We should have power, right? Except that the starter pull cord broke. To fix that you have to take the entire thing apart using a socket that apparently got lost from the tool kit. So all week we’ve gone to work with the plan of fixing the thing in the evening, only to get home and say screw it we’re tired.
Today I don’t work. I woke up ready to tackle the generator. I even watched a video on how to do the job before I went to sleep in case my phone died before morning. Then we actually argued about who was going to fix it. I believe it is my responsibility to know how to do stuff. Chris feels responsible to take care of the hard stuff. After a bit I had to agree that his plan to acquire the missing tools before doing the work made the most sense.
So here I am, at home with no power and a phone that was at 5% and dropping. I might have to spend the day without it! Oh no! Then I remembered my backup battery. It sat on the shelf for a year through heat and extreme cold. Would it have power still? Yes! It read 100%. I plugged in my phone and happily got charging.
The moral of the story is that you should have backups, even if you don’t need to use them. You should maintain them in good order and remember that they’re there so they can do their job when you need them.
As soon as the generator is back online I’m going to put my battery back to charge.
It has been two months exactly since my last post. I never mean to go that long between posts, but life is kinda weird. Either I feel like it would be just another weather report or things are so crazy that I have no energy to put words together at the end of the day. Ideally I would get into the habit of a weekly or even a daily post. We’ll see if I get there.
So the first thing on my list is that I want to acknowledge what should have been. I had a FB memory pop up this morning.
Today is what should have been my 27th anniversary, but this year will mark 10 years that he has been gone. I keep wondering what George would think about this crazy adventure we’re on. If he was here we would have made a lot more progress, that’s for sure! He had more energy than any ten other people I know. But I don’t know if he ever would have been on board with coming to Alaska. The month he spent on a longliner ruined his opinion of the frozen north. At one point he swore he would never come up here even for a summer vacation trip. Maybe that’s part of why I like it up here. It’s my adventure. I’m living my dream, not his. I certainly don’t feel the weight of dates so much anymore.
Here’s my annual reminder for everyone. Life is finite. When they put up a tombstone they put two dates and a dash in between. Everything you are and everything you will do is contained within that dash. Make the most of it. Tomorrow is not guaranteed, so make sure you live today. Find adventures small and large. Work to live, but don’t forget to live. Make that phone call, give hugs, share smiles, have no regrets. Second chances are few and far between.
Now for the adventure!
December rolled along mostly smoothly. It was cold. There was snow but it was thin enough that people were worried about their septic systems freezing up. About the only thing I remember was that on Solstice day I could hardly keep my eyes off of the sky. It was gorgeous all day!
January has been the month of crazy. We had a day where it got ridiculously warm and poured rain on top of ice roads. Then the temperature dropped and we got nearly 2 feet of snow. That all got packed into a thick layer of ice on the roads that they’re still trying to scrape off. It is not fun to drive on!
Then we had some mechanical issues to work through. The alternator on my truck died and we had to drive home on just battery power. They lasted just long enough to get us into the driveway, but the lights got dimmer and dimmer as we went. Talk about nerve-wracking! No moose were struck and we made it in one piece. Thank you God! That night the temperature dropped to -40° again and stayed in that range for nearly the next two weeks. Even though we had a replacement alternator in the back seat, there’s no way anyone wants to touch tools at that cold. The metal will burn you. Trust me. We needed to figure out how to get it to a heated shop. In the meantime we made arrangements for riding to work with our friends across the creek.
Now if having the truck go down wasn’t enough fun, when we got home from work on Sunday it was to discover that our brand new generator had gone out. At first we thought it was just out of fuel, and maybe needed some time in a warm place. No. It started sucking oil through that rubber breather tube into the carburetor. Nothing anyone did could make it stop happening. It simply wouldn’t run longer than a couple of hours before the carb was too fouled to run. The generator it replaced had quit due to a suspected electrical problem. It would give an overload warning even without things being plugged in. To top it off, our friends started having generator struggles as well. Cold may have been a factor, but not completely. We ended up moving in with them for a week until some of this could be resolved. Our RV was frozen in the meantime. Even the propane stopped flowing. Sometimes you give in for a little while and do the minimum for survival. That includes getting a couple nights of good sleep without shivering.
When things got better they did so almost all at once. The weather warmed up to zero. The old generator let itself run again. (It’s still going. The new one went to get fixed by professionals.) Being indoors and warm may have helped. The truck batteries got warmed and charged. And finally, we made arrangements to bring the truck to a church friend who has a heated shop that is much closer than the only other option we could think of. The story of how it got there is the best part.
My son and my friend’s daughter teamed up to get the truck running. First they had to convince the generator to run long enough to warm the oil pan and engine block so it could start. They put in the batteries and hoped for the best. It fired up and the clock started ticking…
The shop is about 16 miles away. They only got halfway there before the batteries gave out and the truck died on the side of the highway. Ironically, it was right next to the NAPA in North Pole. They toyed with the idea of trying to borrow a charger for the batteries, but that would take too long. Then Nena saw the tow strap. It was perfect. The hooks were small enough to work with a hook on the back of her Prius. Yes, a Prius. She hooked it up to my big truck and pulled it the remaining 8 miles to the shop. Yes, a Prius pulled my Dodge eight miles on icy roads. No, nobody got a video of it. We have plans to recreate the situation just to get video proof that it can be done…at least on level ground. The poor thing didn’t quite have enough oomph to get it up the minor incline into the shop. They had to use another vehicle for that.
So we are now back to mostly normal. The old generator is working. The new one should be home soon as a backup. The truck works fine. And then someone was made a manager at Chris’ work, then promptly manufactured an excuse to fire him so he now has no reason to not find a better place with better pay. We’ll see how that shakes out. He has some great options that have come along.
That’s my month summed up. I left out a little bit, mostly because I want to see how some things work out before I share them. I’ll try not to wait another two months before the next post.
Now go figure out how to make the most of your dash. It’s a whole new year. You have 11 months left to fill.
I had a calendar reminder pop up just a bit ago. Generator maintenance. I put that in for every two weeks so we wouldn’t lose track of our oil change schedule. This week it is hardly necessary. We have been forced to maintain the heck out of the thing! It has been bitterly cold lately, with highs of -15° and yet slightly humid. This causes frost to build up in the air intake, choking the engine to death. Friday it happened every 4 hours until we stayed up past midnight and completely took the thing apart to even clean out the fuel tank. It lasted two days. Last night it added hose pop-offs and oil spewing to its bag of tricks. We are starting to look at our budget to see where we will fit in a new one.
With our current lifestyle electricity is the cornerstone of everything. If we lose power we have no way to heat this RV. Without heat we cannot stay in here. Our water and food will freeze. It is an actual life-threatening situation when the overnight temperatures dip to -35.
We are fine so far. Maybe a little bit sleep deprived, but the only casualty of the cold has been a bag of potatoes that froze solid. And a truck battery. (I might have jinxed us with that last post.) This cold is testing us but we haven’t broken yet.
I will say, though, this is the last winter I spend in an RV.
The last few days have been a bit chilly. Temperatures dropped below zero and kept falling. This morning is colder than we have seen since last winter.
Friday morning was -22° and the truck would not start. These temps are hard on diesels. We plugged in the block/oil pan/battery heater to warm it up and let it sit all day but still it wouldn’t start. The batteries got low, which can be the end of even a new battery when it’s this cold. So Chris brought the battery inside to sit by the heater. It spent almost 24 hours warming up. Then yesterday afternoon he put the battery back in and the truck started up. What a relief! We were down to the last bit of generator fuel and the heating oil was getting low.
Typically we use 1 gallon of gas for 8 hours of runtime on the generator. We even have a schedule we keep. 8am, 4pm, midnight keeps it running. Plugging in the truck goes through more fuel. It has to be filled every 5 hours instead. Good thing we picked up a couple extra gas cans.
Indoors is colder than most people would like. I’m finding it hard to leave my nest of blankets this morning, and even the dog has come to appreciate his sweater. (It’s a blanket you can wear!) But the Toyo keeps it 70° warmer than outside. Using the oven to make dinner helps. We would use the propane heater as a booster, but the blower went out just in time for this cold snap. I’ll have to find a replacement soon.
We shrink wrapped the windows yesterday and that helped a lot with the draft. Lots of hot beverages and soup helps too. Honestly, a cabin would be easier to keep comfortable, but we’ve mostly got this figured out. We’re ahead of last year by a longshot. All systems are working so far. The only thing to do is improve.
In case you didn’t know, I have been living off grid for just over a year now. Off grid means different things to different people. I have seen some more extreme definitions include hiding your very existence from the government, but that is a topic for a very different person. My definition of off grid is simply not being connected to public utilities.
I am living on my friend’s land in an RV until I get my cabin built. There are no hookups. My friend and her family have used a generator for electric power for the six years they have lived here, though they are on the verge of getting a connection to the power company this summer.(It’s paid for and the work order is sent!) We still bring our water home in 5 gallon jugs. We still use an outhouse and have alternative arrangements for laundry and showers. This lifestyle is not uncommon up here for various reasons that I can go into at another time.
I think the reason I am writing this today is because I just changed the oil in my generator. It’s the second time I’ve ever done it since I have been up here. That doesn’t mean that my generator has been neglected, it just means that I have great support people who currently aren’t here to do it for me. I might be spoiled!
Expert No1 is my friend’s daughter. She’s so good at making them run that she wants to become a mechanic, but she doesn’t want to do it at home anymore. She trained No2, who is pretty good himself after keeping the lights and heat on all winter. Between the two of them I don’t have much to worry about. And that’s enough bragging on them for now.
When you think about energy, what comes to mind? Often it will be words like green, renewable, fossil fuel, solar, etc. When you dig down it often comes down to electricity. Windmills, solar panels, hybrid vehicles all generate electric power that is used to do the work. We think of massive freight trains and ships running on diesel, but that fuel really powers a generator that runs an electric motor to move the vehicle.
How much of your life depends on electricity? If you went to the main breaker in your house and shut off the power how much would that affect your ability to do basic things? Could you cook food? Take a warm shower? Heat your home? Do you have a well pump that you rely on to provide your clean water? How would you charge your devices? How would it limit your communication and entertainment? How long do you think you could leave the power off before you start itching to turn it back on? I am not telling you to actually shut off the power, but I highly recommend it as a thought experiment. Spend a day where you deliberately take note of every time and every way you use electricity. You might be surprised by how ubiquitous it is.
The first time I really wanted to dig into this topic was last fall when Oregon was dealing with wildfire. PGE made the decision to shut off some high voltage lines that pass through the Mt Hood National Forest due to high fire danger and high winds. As a result my family in Oregon was out of power for a couple of days. We discussed the possibility of them getting a generator, but were distracted when almost the entire county was put under evacuation orders due to wildfire.
The topic came up again in winter. Remember that week that half the country got hit hard with winter weather? My family again was without power for three days and the house got kinda cold. I spent time on a phone call discussing how to use a generator without powering the whole house and how to decide what is most necessary. I’m sure that they’ll get a generator at some point, but only after a few more annoying outages.
So now you have thought about how much you use electricity. Maybe you want a generator. How much do you need? I will argue for minimalism. I will state my case based on my own experience. I will not claim expertise because my experience pool is shallow. But what I know is good enough to keep you alive and comfortable.
I use a Honda 2200 generator. I am not getting paid to say this. I chose it because my friends told me that they are the most reliable, long lasting, and efficient generator they have tried. Remember, this family has exclusively relied on generators for power for the last 6 years, so I figure they know what they’re talking about. So far I’m pretty happy with the units I own. They run up to eight hours on a single gallon of fuel. I have been told that they will last up to 18 months running almost nonstop if they are properly maintained. That includes changing the oil about every 300 hours of runtime. I set a reminder on my phone for every 2 weeks. The process only takes 5 minutes.
So how do you hook up your generator to what you need to power? I remember my mom asking where the cable was to hook up the generator to the house. If you scroll up a bit you will see that we use a standard extension cord. That’s all!
Let me be perfectly clear. Unless you buy a big whole house generator and pay an electrician to install a special switch to connect it to your home you should never, NEVER connect a generator to your home’s electrical system. There are good reasons, like not sending power back into a grid that should be dead and harming people who are trying to get the power back up. But also, a small generator like this won’t run your whole house.
What should you do? Set your generator up outdoors where the exhaust won’t build up or fill your living area with carbon monoxide. Plug in a heavy duty extension cord and run it to the house. Connect a power strip and plug in your basics. Lights, phone chargers, TV, fan, all the simple things. You might even be able to run a small AC unit to cool a single room in hot weather. The generator will let you know its limits. This is where you figure out the basics of what you truly need. I discovered I couldn’t use a hair dryer. Most heaters are not likely to work either, so you might have to put some thought into another way to keep warm. It’s probably a good idea to try it out before you really need it, too.
If you are going to use a generator you must have fuel for it. The simplest way to store it is in 5 gallon gas cans. If you are worried about it getting stale then set up a system to rotate it. Number your cans. Fill them up. Set a monthly reminder on your phone. Pour gas can number 1 into your car’s tank, then take it with you to the gas station to fill it up again. Next month do the same with gas can number 2, and continue down the line until you get back to 1. Five cans will usually last for a week with this generator. Will the power be back on by then? Most of the time the answer is yes, but it never hurts to have some extra on hand.
Let me talk about gas cans now. The design has been messed with a lot over the last 20 years or so and most of what they tried sucked. For a while I missed the vent on the can that allowed gas to pour freely into the tank you were trying to fill. I guess the EPA didn’t like something about it so if you look at my picture above you will notice only one can with a vent. Today that is my least favorite. I call it the spitter. Every time I set it down it will spew gas at me. I hate it. The one that works best is the childproof one. It’s the one with the black and green nozzle. It took a while to figure out how to work it, but it gives you great control and has a vent integrated into the nozzle that lets air go in as fuel goes out without chugging. I fully plan to replace the spitter with another one like it before winter.
You may notice that there is a second generator in the picture of the gas cans. That is the 2200 companion generator. We bought it as a backup. There were several times that it saved us from the cold last winter. There is nothing worse than waking up at 3am, -°20 outside, and you hear the generator choking itself to death hours before the fuel should run out. It is far better to pick up the spare, top off the tank, swap it out and go back to sleep instead of trying to fix the main unit as the heat slowly disappears. Our oil heater requires power to run so if there isn’t any we get cold fast. If we can just swap them out, the struggling unit can come inside to warm up, which often solves the problem.
Of course the other benefit of the companion generator is that you can use a special cable to connect it to the other generator and run them together to double the energy output. Flexibility is a good thing to have. I’m pretty sure that the spare will put in time at the cabin site once we start building. We need power to run tools and charge batteries for the cordless.
To sum it up, our modern lives call for power. Lately it seems more and more questionable whether we can rely on the power to stay on. Having an alternative source is a simple way to keep yourself and your family comfortable. You don’t have to default to solar or wind systems with battery banks that you have to maintain. If you know how to run a lawnmower you can use a generator. The battery backup can come later.
I think I’ve covered enough ground for today. Again, I’m not an expert, but I feel that living this way for the last year gives me a good enough foundation to speak from. I encourage you to at least run the thought experiment to become aware of what you use and need. If you do buy a generator, I highly recommend trying it out for a day, even if it’s just a backyard campout. It makes a great confidence boost to know that you can take care of at least one major need.
This is what I woke up to. I made sure to not crop out the time. Don’t worry. We’re comfortable this time around. Both the Toyo and the propane heater are working to keep the indoor temps cozy. The thermometer in my end of the RV reads 45, but it’s mounted on an exterior wall so that might skew it colder. My blankets are enough to make it comfortable. Clay dog agrees.
This is what I woke up to yesterday morning. I had to sweep it off so I could head in to work. No ice to scrape. Nothing melted because it was -15 when I went to bed and -8 when I woke up. All the snow is dust and blows off easily.
Driving into town I was able to safely cruise at highway speed. Normal, dry pavement speed limit speed is safe in these conditions. It’s almost surprising because at night my headlights reflect off the shiny layer of ice on the road surface, but if you aren’t stupid it isn’t really slick. Don’t let your wheels touch the deeper snow on the shoulder though, it’ll suck you in.
Honestly, the only problem with fresh snow is the visibility. Traffic in the right lane clears it out, but if someone passes on the left it stirs up a cloud that takes a while to settle. That cloud will drift across the median too and you can’t see what other vehicles are doing until it clears.
As much as Portland loves their dogs, I doubt this will ever show up in Portland. Actually, I would love to see this. Let me have a team and one of the carts they use for summer training. Let me go flying down the bike path. I wouldn’t need to fear the homeless campers because I’d have 8 dogs with me and all they want is to run. Nah, on the other hand I’d have to watch out for paw injuries from broken glass and needles. No need to put my imaginary dogs through that. Better to stay here where it’s cold enough that running doesn’t make them overheat, and you never have to dig ice splinters out of a paw.
So it is cold and snowy up here. That’s a given. I’m enjoying every bit of it. We’ve had a few rough patches. This morning we’re listening to the generator with suspicion because it doesn’t sound quite right. The backup generator is staged and ready to go if we need to swap it out and let the other one warm up. It’s possible that moisture is in the fuel again which means ice in the carburetor. This is why we have two of them. We have learned a lot in the last few months.
February means we’re in the second half of winter. Things start thawing out in March. We could almost start a countdown. As cold as it is right now I know this winter wasn’t as cold as it could have been and I’m thankful for that. Last year had lows in the -40s to -50s during January. I would hate to have dealt with that in an RV. I’m looking forward to building my cabin so I can have good insulation again.
I hope you are all enjoying the last of winter wherever you are. Go do something fun. Find a reason to appreciate your warm house. Your backyard might not be below zero, but winter weather has a way of making indoors feel extra cozy. Revel in it and recharge to be ready for when the world comes back to life.
You know the memes: a picture of a cabin in the middle of nowhere and the text says, “for a million dollars” or “give up football” or something like that. A lot of people say YES! Others don’t think they can. A few more are emphatically hell NO! Most of them will never try.
I listen to podcasts and recently one covered a guest’s life growing up in North Korea. The host was rightly horrified by the description of the human rights violations and starvation faced by the people, but also by the idea of no running water and the struggle for electricity.
As I drive guests to and from town I talk about local history and the economy and life in the extreme conditions, but what often fascinates them most are stories of my own adventures. I mention how warm it feels at 18° and how strange it was when we got up to 38° for a few hours the other night. Then I casually say it has been as cold as -31° and oh by the way I spent that night without heat. And I wonder… Do they look at me the way that podcast host looked at the woman who grew up in North Korea? Do they pity me for doing this hard, crazy thing? They are all pretty well off to be able to travel and spend the money on the location I work for so maybe the idea of giving up modern comfort and convenience is something they would never consider, let alone do.
Another podcast I listen to uses the term voluntary hardship. It’s a strength training podcast so they literally mean choosing to pick up a heavy thing to gain the ability to bring in the groceries or work in the garden. You choose to do hard things so that everything else is easy by comparison. You gain strength in more than just your body. I haven’t gotten started on the strength training yet (I really need to) but I’ve been applying the concept to other areas in my life, often just as a mindset exercise.
I could have stayed in Oregon. I could have kept that stable job with benefits. I could have stayed in the house with all the modern comforts and conveniences like showers whenever I want. I didn’t have to come to a place where the air hurts my face and I have to go outside in the middle of the night when my bladder wakes me up. I chose this, knowing the shape of the life I was stepping into.
We didn’t have to stay in the RV with no heat on the night it hit -31°. We could have gone across the creek and stayed in the warm cabin. In fact we did that the next night before the Toyo got running in the RV. But staying in the cold proved that we could do it. In our own minds we survived the hard thing and came out the other side a little stronger. Each time something goes wrong we can tackle it with the knowledge that we are strong enough to do what has to be done and when we fix it we gain more confidence in our own ability and experience.
2020 has been hard on everyone. It might be your health or work, finances or need for social connections. There are things to be dealt with to get through this. It cannot stay bad forever. I suggest you embrace the hardship. Tackle it and find a way through that leaves you stronger. Life is there for the living and when you’ve been through a challenge the easy stuff is that much sweeter.
Life without running water, predictable power, and heat is not something that I expect everyone to try. I say it over and over, this really is not for everyone! But that doesn’t mean that only people who deprive themselves can benefit. Everyone can benefit by handling some hardship in their lives. It doesn’t have to break you. Let it make you stronger.
I was talking with one of my coworkers back when we hit -30. It’s her first winter too. She came up from Idaho to live with her sister. When I asked if she had gotten her vehicle winterized she said not yet and told me the most ridiculous thing. Her dad has a friend who runs a car dealership. They often went to him for a friends and family discount. She asked him about winterizing her car since her sister had told her how important it can be up here. He looked into it and came back to tell her he thought it was a complete scam and he recommended against it.
If winterization is a scam, the entire state has been bamboozled!
Almost every car you see will have a plug hanging out of the grill somewhere. Some people even keep their cold weather extension cord wound up on the front of the vehicle. Every workplace, school, apartment building, and hotel has plugins for each parking space. I have had guests wonder what the plug is all about, assuming that we have a lot of electric cars up here. We don’t. This just powers the heating pads that get installed on the batteries, engine block, oil pan, and transmission pan.
If the temperature gets colder than about -10° the oil thickens up. One ad on the radio compared it to sucking honey through a straw. It can’t flow enough to protect the engine so the engine can run to heat up. The batteries can freeze and lose power, sometimes permanently. If you can’t warm up the vehicle enough to start then you just have to wait for warmer temps, whenever those might come along.
Blue hasn’t started for two days. I have gotten Chris to drive me to work in the Scone, but he now wants me to drive myself. The ridiculous thing is that I bought the car with a manual transmission and let him learn to drive it in the snow but I’m afraid to do it myself. Yeah, my anxiety is showing there. I’m going to leave Blue plugged in until 8:30 and see what happens. If it’s a no-start I’ll have to suck it up and drive the car. Such is my life.
Living off grid means using a generator for power. We need electricity to power either the Toyo heater or the propane heater. Electricity powers the heat tape that prevents the propane from freezing in the line. Electricity powers the heat kit that will allow my truck to start after a night of -20°.
When so much basic comfort relies on a device you tend to pay attention to it. You start to know all it’s quirks. You get a sense of when something might be wrong. And when you rely on a generator the worst sound you can wake up to is silence.
Silence means the generator quit. Silence means no heat. Silence means you better get dressed and bring it inside to figure out what killed it.
If it didn’t run out of gas, the reason the generator quit is usually related to water. Water in the fuel turns into ice in the carburetor, fuel line, or filter. Or, like this morning, condensation can build up frost on the air intake and choke it off. You quickly learn exactly what tools to pull out of your kit to take it apart for diagnosis. Hopefully it’s something that can be fixed quickly.
Living away from city sounds is a beautiful thing. It’s nice to hear nature. But in the extreme conditions where you need to rely on power, silence is a terrible sound.
I just got a text from my son asking me to put some coffee on the stove. He had to go out for a while and wanted a hot beverage for when he came back. Back in Oregon coffee on the stove would mean Cuban coffee (super strong espresso) but here we have started doing it a bit different.
We have a regular coffee machine. It makes just enough for a cup each and does a decent job. It’s easy to clean by dumping out the paper filter and also does double duty as a generator fill timer. If we want to know how long the generator has been running we just look at the clock. Often we will unplug it after filling to reset the timer. We get 8 hours per tank of gas, and then we need to refill.
My friend works as a move out house cleaner. Sometimes people leave interesting things behind. One person left three of these stovetop percolators. She gave us two. They have proved useful for simply heating water for dishwashing and don’t put a strain on the generator like the electric one does. As long as we have propane flowing we can have hot water or coffee.
Just yesterday my son told me that he really prefers the coffee from the percolator to the electric one. If you get the grounds right and let it boil the right amount of time it can make some really nice coffee. It can be as strong as espresso but not so bitter. Add in sugar and cream or some condensed milk and you have a wonderful drink to warm up with.